منو کاربری

20m Loop Antenna

با سلام

http://213.114.137.49/antennas/20m_ant_00.htm

by Harry Lythall - SM0VPO

این  رادیو اماتور عزیز در کشورخودشن سوئد در اپارتمان  زیر در طبقه چهارم زندگی می کند و بسیار علاقمند به تماس در باند 20 متر بودند

با توجه به محدودیت های موجود ایشون تصمیم گرفتند با امکانات موجود یک انتن  ساده برای تماس در 14 مگا بسازند

لوازمی که مورد نظرشون بود عبارت بود از یکمتر لوله  15 میلیمتری پلاستیکی که برای کابل کشی درون ساختمان استفاده می شود و  چند متر سیم برق نمره2/5

برای این کار ابتدا طول هرلوله 80 سانتیمتر جدا کرده و بعد از بستن انها بهم دیگر بصورت صلیب لوله ها را بافاصله 4 سانتیمتر از هم و 3دور برای سیم پیچ خروجی با فاصله یک سانت از نوک لوله سوراخ کردم در نتیجه فاصله سیم پیچ از هم 2/5 سانتیمترشد در یک سمت لوله عمودی با همان فاصله نیم دور سیم با اضافه کردن دو سوراخ چهارم جهت تغذیه از فرستنده قراردادم

بعد از نصب قطعات نقطه کار انتن بصورت اماده در 14900 کیلو بدست امد و برای تنظیم دقیق انتن  در انتهای سیم های بیرونی مقداری از سیم ها را دور هم پیچیدم تا خازنی تهیه شود که با تنظیم دقیق مقدار دور هم پیچیده شده فرکانس کار پایین  امده و به 14175 رسید

سر راه 5متر کابل انتنrg58   و انتن لوپ با استفاده از توروئید بکار رفته در منابع تغذیه کامپیوتر  و سه رشته سیم با قطر یک میلیمتر  تعداد 7 دور سیم بهم بافته را  رد کرده و سر سیم هارا سری به هم وصل کردم

اول سر سیم الف بعد ته سیم الف به سر سیم ب بعد ته سیم ب به سر سیم ج  و در اخر ته سیم جیم که به ترتیب شماره 1 و 2 و 3 و 4  شماره می گیرند

مطابق شکل زیر سیم ها به بالون متصل می شوند

دو سر سیم تغذیه لوپ به اتصال یک و سوم وصل می شود مغزی کابل به سر چهار و بدنه کابل به سر دو اتصال خواهد داشت

کابل انتن هم از درون لوله نگهدارنده انتن لوپ  عبور داده می شود

ابتدا و انتهای سه دور سیم لوپ  را کمی بلند گرفته تا بروی هم تابیده شده و تشکیل خازن  قابل تنظیم بدهند

بعد با یک انتن انالایزر یا گرید دیپ متر یا برگشت سنج  این تابیدگی را طوری انجام میدهیم که حداقل برگشت را در فرکانس 14175 کیلوهرتز داشته باشیم و انتن تنظیم و طول اضافه بریده و انتن اماده کار است

 اصل گزارش در ادامه مطلب:

Introduction

I recently saw that my 80m (3.5MHz) loop (or frame) antenna has been really popular, and that there are loads of other radio amateurs who have taken my design and "ran with it" to produce variations that all have some great improvement. There have been many in-depth tests and simulations, all with exceedingly good results and reports. This is exactly what I am aiming for with my homepages - free information for all and my designs being improved upon. That way we all win :-)

One small point all varaitions have in common is the need for an expensive tuning capacitor and a very restricted RF power level. Of course, you can throw money at the problem, but for me this hurts. I got to thinking that there must be a way of adjusting the design a little and finding another technique to tune the antenna, and to make the best use of the little radio transciever I have in Sweden, given the limited space.

My limited space apartment.

As you can see there is not much opportunity for grand antennas. And to add to this, the equipment I have in Sweden is also limited to a single 5-Watt unit.

My limited equipment - only 5-Watts.

The Design Thoughts

Today I have no area of land to use for antennas. I have a glassed-in balcony on the 4th floor of an apartment block. I really like the 20m (14MHz) band so I will concentrate on that. I am not really interested in the CW end of the band, except perhaps 14.070MHz for the digimodes. So my requirements are:

• As efficient as possible (useable)

Total price less than $2

The antenna I have created is based on my original 3.5MHz loop (or frame) antenna. This time I built it out of scrap components. I cadged (tiggade) some plastic conduit tubes from an electrical contractor at work. The same guy also gave me the remnants of a roll of 2.5mm C.S.A. multi-strand mains cable. That was all I needed.

In my junkbox I found no tuning capacitors, but WAIT!! Why do I need to tune the antenna? Once it is tuned I should not need to tune it again, just set the centre-frequency to 14.175MHz. If I can get the Q-factor to around 100 then my useable 3dB bandwidth should be more than 150kHz. That will give me 14.10MHz to 14.25MHz.

Ok, I need a 1-off, preset tuning capacitor. Why not use a Gimmik Capacitor? Just twist two bits of wire together and cut it short to get the resonant frequency I want. So I need to get the coil wound so that there is sufficient cable length and self capacitance to give a resonance of about 14.5MHz without any extra capacitance what-so-ever. That means I need just a few pf. That sounds like a good plan.

Construction

The 15mm Diameter plastic tube I "aquired" were 80cm long. After much trial and error I found that exactly 3 turns, with 2.5cm spacing, gives about 14.9MHz self resonance. The wire support holes are exactly 4cm spaced, beginning 1cm from the end of each tube. The two tubes are fixed into a and X using zip-straps (tie-wraps, buntband). The feed loop is 1/2 turn.

Note the size and position of the feed loop. Also the Gimmik capacitor.

One problem I had with the original loop antenna was that of RF coming back down the cable braid. Using on old FT-101ZD it was possible to feel the RF on the microphone with your lips. The cure for this is to use a balanced feed and at least 5m of RF cable.

I robbed the ferrite ring for the balun from an old ATX computer PSU and made a triflar wound torroidal transformer. That is to say, twist together three lengths of 1mm x 7-strand insulated hookup wire together. Use this to make a 7-turn coil and connect the three coils in series, with four connections. Feed connections (numbered in the picture below) 1 and 3 are connected to to the antenna feed loop. Connect the coaxial cable braid to connection 2, and the coax centre to connection 4. My balun is self-supported on the connection leads.

The 1:1 Balun I used.

The coaxial feed cable was found to affect the resonance slightly, so I fed that through an extra bit of tube to make it stay in one place. It works fine.

Feeder cable secured in the support tube.

Testing

Testing is very easy. I used my GDO-2 to check the middle-turn of the loop for a dip. Twist the two tails together to form the Gimmik capacitor and adjust the length of the twist until the centre-frequency is 14.175MHz. With the GDO you can get it within about 100kHz to 200kHz, but then you can check the VSWR using your HF radio. You can also sweep the band for maximum noise and get a very close approximation.

The Gimmick capacitor.

The centre.frequency of my 20m Loop antenna is 14.175MHz, and the VSWR is better than 1.05:1 (I can hardly see any movement on my meter). The Q-factor is somewhere aproaching 100. The useable bandwidth is just a little narrower than I would have wished, but the antenna certainly works well and meets all the other criteria. But the slightly less useable bandwidth criterion is at the expense of better performance, and it still allows me to use 14.070MHz, although it is a little quiter down there.

The completed antenna.

Conclusion

No-matter how you play with the figures, the best indoor antenna cannot replace a full-size dipole antenna. But the indoor antenna can give some extra features, such as just reaching out your arm and trimming a little, which you cannot do with a long-wire antenna up a tree out in the garden, especially when it is raining.

This antenna gets me on the air on 14MHz, and it has a useable frequency range. The VSWR is almost perfect at the centre-frequency, and this time I don't burn my lips on the microphone (not that I am likely to do so with just 5-Watts of power). The design uses no expensive components, in fact the only item I bought was the block-connector for the balun. That cost me US$1.50 for a pair of 12-contact screw-terminals. The construction is ridiculously simple and easy to build.

On the air I can hear traffic on 14.070 digimodes, and from 14.130 to 14.220MHz I have a near-perfect VSWR aqnd good clear reception of SSB. I can also rotate the antenna to cut out rubbish, and most of all, using the Gimmik capacitor I don't need to re-tune it: it seems temperatore-stable. The weight is less than 500g and when I poke it out of the balcony window the reception improves, the VSWR does not change, and I can make myself heard among the big boys.

I hope that you have some fun building and using this antenna. If you have any ideas for further improving it then please use my forum.

Dont forget to visit my messageboard if you have any questions about this or any other project. I always look forward to receiving feedback, positive or negative.

Very best regards from Harry Lythall
SM0VPO (QRA = JO89WO), Märsta, Sweden.
EA/SM0VPO (QRA = IM86BS), Nerja, Spain.

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• Small size, also portable so I can use it for field use
• No expensive components, everything available locally
• No TVI, QRM or interference to stereos or computer sound